Build Soil Biology and Build Soil Fertility.
Step 1
Soil PH
Soil PH is very important to plant health as well. PH is a chemical property of the soil that effects how nutrients are available to living organisms. Many people change their soils PH by adding lime or sulfur to raise or lower PH. For more detailed information on PH see Wikipedia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_ph

STEP 2
Soil Inoculation
Soils in new landscape that have been imported may be low in natural soil microbes. You can add these organisms with commercially available products. You can also use your own compost pile if you have one. By spreading your aged compost on your lawn the native microbes will take hold and grow. One word on buying soil microbes from a commercial supplier. Like plant communities, soil microbes are different genetically from region to region. Commercial products are fine but any naturally occurring populations will be better. As I stated above, changing your soils is hard if not impossible. Yet a layer of active, healthy soils can be achieved with a little patience and a few afternoons a month. It basically breaks down to two things.
Building a compost bin to grow soil biology.
Applying the active soil microbes from the compost to the landscape.

A simple compost bin can be made out of strong wire fencing, a pallet, four cinder blocks, and a refrigerator pan. The wire fence allows air to circulate freely. The pallet will elevate the pile above the tray. When running, the water from a hose will soak through the compost pile and wash all the microbes, arthropods, and nematodes down into the tray.

This example was made from recycled metal fence posts, cattle wire, and a cooking tray. The tarp is to hold moisture due to the arid climate where this is located. The wood at the bottom has a hole to funnel water into the catch tray. All recycled materials.
At this point you can take that liquid and add water, and molasses, then ferment it to make larger amounts of compost tea for larger projects. I feel their is an easier way to do this that skips a few steps by allowing the fermentation to occur in the lawn. It involves using what's called a 'hose end applicator'. Water can be run through a commercial compost bin and caught in a barrel or other container. The excess water is collected in the tray. then it is filtered to remove large debris like leaves, twigs, etc. This water has billions of good soil microbes. Mix it in the hose end applicator with the right amount of molasses. Then turn on the hose and spray on your lawn and landscape.
Comercial Compost Bins can be used to "extract" compost tea like the example above by running water through the compost to capture the live biology in the runoff. If vermacomposting or worm composting is employed then the rich biologcal liquid that collects at the bottom of vermacompost bins can be applied through the Hose End Sprayer.
Compost tea can be brewed by placing a portion of compost in water with air bubbles added to grow soil microbs to be sprayed back to the landscape and garden.
A Hose End Applicator is easy to get at any hardware store. It uses the water from your hose to mix small amounts of any material in the applicator to be sprayed out with the hose to wherever it is needed. Mix a full strength portion of tea with about three onces of molasses. Spray on the yard and lawn untill liquid in the sprayer is clear. Repeat.
The population growth takes place in the soil. These are handy tools to have on hand. It will allow you to apply small amounts of compost teas to the yard quickly and effectively.
Step 3
Adding Sugars
Adding sugars to soil may sound a little strange. But the science is solid. When plants carry out photosynthesis they create sugar. This is the food that animals eat. It's also the food source that soil microbes are after as well. By boosting the sugars present in soils, microbial populations are boosted. This is beneficial by speeding the processes that break down the dead and dying leaves, grass blades, etc. As this occurs organic matter is added to the soil naturally.
One word of caution about applying sugars to your lawn. Of too much sugar is applied then the bacteria population explodes. As this happens the bacteria consume the soils available nitrogen to grow and reproduce. This can rod the grass of nitrogen and cause yellowing of the turf. It is temporary. As the bacteria die off because the sugars are used up, the nitrogen stored in their bodies is released back to the lawn and the green color will com back. A good rule of thumb is this:
3-5 oz. of molasses per 1000 sq.ft. ( 20'x50')
Step 4
Monitoring Moisture
Moisture levels are very important also. Soil microbial populations need water just like plants do. See my post Save Water in Five Steps for more detailed information on water management. Hopefully the addition of fossil fuel based artificial fertilizers can be eliminated or at least reduced as your landscape soils grow and become more active, and alive.

















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