Add-on Solar Collector Heater
21 Oct '07 from alex_m
Heat from the sun: I added a solar collector to the south wall of my bilevel suburban Denver house in the fall of 2005. It's a little like a section of greenhouse stuck to the side of the house. Since there was an upstairs window practically right over a downstairs window, I didn't have to make any permanent modifications to the house to allow air circulation through the collector. On sunny winter days, I just open the upper and lower windows and set up a portable fan in one of them. Passive convection would circulate some air from the lower to upper level, but adding the fan greatly increases the heat output. Construction:
collector in winter, fan running
8mm twin wall polycarbonate
Winter use: Around mid-October, it becomes cold enough and the sun angle low enough to get significant supplemental heat from the collector. I monitor the air temperature in the collector with a remote sensing thermometer; around mid-morning, as the collector air gets above indoor room temperature, I open the two windows and turn on the fan, blowing air from upper into lower level. Since I'm almost always home, controlling it all manually works OK. If I weren't almost always here, I would have to install a thermostatic controller for a fan and some electrically operated vents in the windows, or figure out some other circulation system, because temperatures can vary a great deal as the cloud/sun conditions change. E.g. it can be cloudy and freezing cold at 09:30, and the collector temperature might be 28 F. degrees; if the sun comes out at 10:00 it can rise to over 110 degrees in 1/2 an hour. On the typical sunny winter day here, I'll heat my house up to 66 F. degrees (with the natural gas furnace hydronic system) when I wake up. Then, starting mid-morning, I will operate the collector about 5-6 hours, with the furnace turned off. Depending on outside temperature, I may or may not need to turn the furnace on again in the evening.
Summer setup: By early June, I don't need to heat the house, and slide out the large polycarbonate panels, and replace them with sections of redwood lattice held in by screws into the frame. I insert a custom-fit rectangular planter box in the base, and plant vines and flowers: morning glories and various beans, which over the summer, climb up the trellis and provide shade for the windows. (By mid-summer, the sun elevation is such that very little direct light would come in these windows anyway, but the trellis and vines are a nice decoration anyway.) The photo below shows the vines in mid-summer, halfway up the trellis. By late summer the vines totally cover the trellis.
Costs and savings: With all the custom fitting and angles, this was a complex carpentry project that took ~40 hours to build. I used a lot of surplus wood and hardware I had on hand, but bought a 10' cedar 4x4 that I ripped down to make the long pieces for top section and 3 4x8' polycarbonate pieces (about $2.25/sq. ft.). My total material cost was ~$300, but you'd spend about $60 more if you had to buy all the wood and hardware. How long did it take to recoup the cost in energy savings? Comparing my heating costs with the previous years', I'm estimating that I saved enough natural gas to pay for the project, more or less, in its first winter of use. Now beginning its third winter of use (2007-8) it's still working fine and I'd guess saving me a few hundred dollars a year in fuel costs.
mid-summer trellis setup
collector side detail, summer











Hi, What do you mean with
Hi,
What do you mean with 'salvaged 1" oak flooring'? Is your floor like any of these:
http://www.gatewoodfloors.com/index.cfm/a/catalog.catshow/catid/5059
?
reply
No, the pieces you ask about are the thin horizontal supports in the middle of big top and bottom polycarbonate panels you can see in picture. I cut them from scrap pieces of standard oak tongue-in-groove flooring which is typically 3/4" thick and about 3.5" wide. I don't have that type of floors in my house; found them in rubbish bin or some scrap pile long ago. I used oak for these pieces for their strength, not wanting to have them any wider or thicker than necessary, but wanting to give the panels some support in their middle. They have worked fine.
nice update
looks like the leaves have grown in a bit more since your initial post -- thanks for the update!
- maxmsf
Payback's a... cinch?
those are great economics, but seems like too much work for most of us. are there systems on the market that do this?
Many pre-fab units
Agree, considering the hassle and work to build, it was only worthwhile as an experiment on this scale. The energy economics are such (using typical rule of thumb for SW US that you have collector area = ~10% of floor area) that it would take 5 such units to provide the bulk of heat for my 2700 sq ft house. A pre-fab or much larger custom made unit would not take so many hours to build per unit of heat gain.
In fact, I see a huge range of pre-fab add-on greenhouse-type of structures are available commercially; you can specify your dimensions and they cut pieces to fit. They typically have aluminum, pre-cut wood or vinyl frames and polycarbonate glazing as I do. I would guess any solar-heating contractor (many advertise as such in city like Denver) could rig up a thermostatically controlled vent system to heat the house, and fan could be solar powered if you want to get fancy.
This is brilliant! - maxmsf
This is brilliant! - maxmsf
What a great example
of incorporating solar into an existing structure without heavy modifications. I love the seasonality of your design!