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Subfloor Types and Basic Installation Considerations

There are many different types of subfloors over which wood flooring can be installed. There are certain basic attributes that are critical for successful wood flooring installations done over all types of subfloors. The subfloors must be dry and will remain dry year round. The moisture content of wood subfloors must not exceed 12%, wood flooring moisture content must be within 3% of wood subfloor moisture content and concrete must not exceed 3 lbs. per a calcium chloride test, or 2 lbs. when installing over radiant heat. The subfloor material must be structurally sound. It also needs to be clean, thoroughly swept and free of all debris. For glue down installations, the subfloor must be free of wax, grease, paint, sealers, old adhesives, etc., which can be removed by sanding. Additionally the subfloor must be level or flat to 3/16” per 10-foot radius.
Wood Subfloors

Nail down installations are most common over wood subfloors, but glue down and floating installations are also possible. Wood subfloors must be well secured, by using a nail or screw every 6” along the joist to avoid squeaking. If the subfloor is not level, sand down high spots and fill low spots with a polymer-modified cementitious leveling compound such as Chemrex Self Leveling Underlayment from BASF. CDX plywood must be at least 5/8” thick for joist spacing up to 16” on center and a minimum of 3/4” thick for joist spacing greater than 16” on center (19.2” maximum). OSB should be at least 3/4” thick. Underlayment grade particleboard can only be used with the glue down method. If using an existing wood floor it must be smooth, level, well adhered and unfinished (if gluing down new flooring).
Concrete Subfloors

Concrete must be fully cured, at least 60 days old, and should have a minimum of 6-mil poly-film between the concrete and the ground. If it is necessary, grind high spots down and level low spots with a polymer-modified cementitious leveling compound or Ardex K-15 Leveling Compound. If gluing down onto concrete which is on or below grade, it is recommended to install sheet vinyl first and then glue the wood flooring on top of the vinyl, as this provides an effective permanent moisture barrier. An alternative to sheet vinyl is to use a concrete sealer approved by the manufacturer of the adhesive that you have chosen. If using EcoTimber HealthyBond Adhesive, the approved concrete sealer is Taylor Nu-Flor 500, which EcoTimber distributes. A concrete slab on/below grade that measures dry today may become moist tomorrow due to rising groundwater. Installing a moisture barrier may be viewed as an insurance policy against concrete becoming wet in the future, which can lead to subsequent floor failure.
Other Subfloors

Gypcrete can be used in floating installations only. Gypcrete, otherwise known as lightweight concrete, is not strong enough to hold together when a wood floor that is glued to it expands and contracts. If the flooring planks buckle and lift, they may pull pieces of gypcrete up with them.

Resilient tile and vinyl tile subfloors can be used with glue down or floating installations. Vinyl must be new and non-urethane coated. Ceramic tile, resilient tile and sheet vinyl must be well bonded to the subfloor, in good condition, clean and level. Do not try to sand existing vinyl floors, as they may contain asbestos, which are harmful to your health.
Installing Over Radiant Heat Subfloors

When installing over radiant heat subfloors it is good to know the facts. Most flooring is not warranted for installation over electric radiant heat systems, as these can heat up too quickly and damage the wood. However, many eco-friendly flooring products can be installed over radiant heat and arewarranted for such use by their manufacturers. It is important to check with the manufacturer because not all products are warranted for such use, and typically only hydronic (hot water) systems are approved. For many warranties, the system must be able to control the surface temperature of the subfloor so that it never exceeds 82°F. Also, it is essential that the subfloor be maintained at within 15°F of its normal operating temperature at all times.

Radiant heat systems keep the wood flooring very dry, so if the system is turned completely off (for example, during hot summer months), the flooring will absorb moisture. When the system is turned back on again it will dry the wood very quickly, which is the most common cause of damage. After the system has been off or not functioning, the floor should be brought back up to normal operating temperature very slowly, over the course of several days.
Eco Friendly Flooring Finishes: Factory Applied & Site Applied

Floor finishes can be applied prior to installation by the manufacturer of the flooring or on site by the floor installer. Each process has advantages and disadvantages:

The following are several advantages to having a factory finish. The factory finish is applied in a controlled environment with no air-borne dust or other impurities. Sub coats containing special additives like aluminum oxide can be added which will greatly increase the wear-resistance of the finish. Extra coats can be easily added by rollers, 9 coats of finish is not uncommon for a factory finish, while 2 to 3 coats is typical for a site applied finish. The finish tends to be much more durable than the best available site applied finishes (about twice as durable is a good rule of thumb). Shorter installation times and labor means a much lower overall installed cost. Factories apply finishes for much less than contractors. Improved indoor air quality - factory finishes are cured by ultraviolet rays in the factory and are completely inert by the time they are put in the box. There is no off gassing of solvents, VOCs, or other harmful chemicals.

There are also disadvantages of a UV-Cured factory finish. The seams between the planks are not sealed, potentially allowing spilled liquids to leak down and damage the wood. Also, the seams may require top coating to seal seams in areas where frequent spills are expected (restaurants, bathrooms, etc.). The end-user cannot change the wood’s color with stains without sanding off the factory finish.

The advantages of a site applied finish consist of creating a smooth, sealed surface over the entire floor. It allows the installer to customize colors with stains, bleaches and dyes. It also allows the installer to select gloss level and permits the use of spot-repairable oil finishes.

There are also disadvantages of a site applied finish. The wood must be sanded prior to coating, resulting in dust, longer installation times and substantially higher labor costs. The end user must wait for finish to dry completely, meaning they are forced out of their home for longer periods of time. Site applied finishes contain solvents and other drying agents that off-gas harmful chemicals into the air for days, weeks or even months after installation (depending on the type of finish). Even “natural” plant-based oil finishes off-gas harmful chemicals. Some “natural” oils have higher VOC contents than urethane finishes. Contractors often make errors that result in finish bubbles, applicator marks, sanding marks, dust in the finish, and poor adhesion. Expensive and highly inconvenient mistakes are common. The long-term durability is much lower than with factory applied finishes.

Care & Maintenance of Eco Friendly Wood Floors

Proper care and maintenance is essential for the performance of any wood floor. Wood flooring should be one of the last items in the construction process to be installed. Once the flooring is installed it should be protected to avoid any damage that could be caused by tradespeople. If using glue down or floating installation methods, do not allow foot traffic or heavy furniture on floor for 24 hours after installation is complete.

In order to prevent scratches it is wise to adhere to the following steps. There is no such thing as a “scratch proof” wood floor, but following these basic procedures will reduce the likelihood and frequency of scratches.

* Felt padding should be permanently affixed to the legs of all furniture before it is moved into the space.
* Do not allow people to wear spiked heels on the floor, these will severely damage even the hardest wood floors and finishes.
* Pet claws should be properly trimmed at all times.
* Work boots and shoes that may have pebbles lodged in the soles should be removed prior to entering.
* It is important to remove grit. Care should be taken to prevent dirt, sand and grit from accumulating on the surface of your floor. They will act like sandpaper and abrade the finish. Walk off mats should be placed inside and out at all exterior exits, and the floor should be swept or vacuumed frequently. All mats or rugs should be cleaned and/or replaced on a regular basis. They should also be moved occasionally to allow natural color changes caused by light to occur evenly in all areas.
* Be sure to always use proper cleaning products. To clean a factory urethane finish, vinegar mixed with water (applied with a slightly damp mop, never a wet mop) is effective at removing scuffs, dried spills, and dust film. Floor waxes, oil soaps and petroleum-based cleaners should not be used under any circumstances.
* Take precautions to avoid standing moisture. Water and wood floors do not mix. Never wet mop a wood floor, and always clean up spills and standing water as soon as possible. With water or any other cleaning agent, be sure to thoroughly ring out the applicator or mop prior to applying it to the floor. A damp mop is fine as long as the moisture is limited to an amount that will evaporate almost immediately. Moisture that is allowed to seep into the seams between the planks may cause damage to your flooring. Do not allow soiled mats or rugs to stay on the floor as they can trap moisture on the surface.

Common Pitfalls of Wooden Flooring

Many wood flooring complaints and claims are a result of conditions that are beyond the control of the manufacturer or seller of the product. It is important to be aware of and to educate customers as to some of the most common pitfalls to avoid. It is critical to make sure that you do not have wet concrete slabs at time of installation. Inadequately cured concrete slabs will continue to release moisture after flooring is installed, which can cause movement and other problems for wood flooring. On- and below-grade concrete slabs can become wet if groundwater rises. Adequate curing times and proper moisture barriers are essential.

Improper heating and ventilation can cause damage. Most wood flooring is manufactured to perform best within relative humidity (RH) ranges of 35% to 65%. It is important to run heating and humidity control systems in advance of installing wood flooring so that job site conditions at the time of installation are similar to those that will prevail when the space is occupied. Conditions that are too dry can cause as many problems as conditions that are too wet! Dry climates can present environmental conditions that are very hard on wood flooring. This is not an issue with just eco friendly flooring, it is an issue with any wood flooring from any source. Wood floors are products of nature, and as such are subject to natural forces.

If you expect your wood flooring installation to experience humidity levels lower than 35%, the guidelines below may help prevent problems. Keep in mind that it’s not only desert and mountain areas that experience dry conditions – in cold climates, humidity levels indoors during the heating season can be extremely low. A high rise building in New York City might be as dry as a home in Arizona during the coldest months of the year.

* Use Humidifiers: The best way to avoid problems caused by excessive drying is to regulate the moisture in the space with humidifiers, which should be functioning throughout the life of the floor. (Don’t turn them off if you are away from home). Most flooring manufacturers require that humidity be maintained within certain levels (usually 35% to 65%) in order for the warranty to stay valid.
* Avoid Sudden Humidity Change: Just as it is important to protect your floor from extreme dryness, it is equally important to protect it from moisture. If the wood takes on moisture and is then subjected to its normal dry conditions, the rapid drying may damage the floor. Painting, plastering, or anything else that artificially adds moisture to the space should only be done if dehumidifiers are in place to remove that moisture from the air before the flooring has a chance to absorb it.
* Install Engineered Flooring Right Out of the Box (Except Exotics): If engineered flooring is allowed to dry too quickly it can cause stresses within the planks, which may result in cracking, cupping and other problems. For best results, leave the flooring in its packaging on site. If acclimation is recommended (as with some engineered exotics when installed in dry conditions), only open the ends of the boxes. During installation, only open as much as needed to work from. Once the flooring is laid, the factory finish will help seal the floor so that the moisture escapes more slowly, preventing damage.
* No Wet Mopping: When you wet mop your floor in a dry climate, the dry wood will absorb moisture (causing expansion) and then shed it very quickly (causing shrinking) once you’ve finished mopping. This rapid change in dimension of the planks causes cupping and other damage. To clean the floor, use a lightly damp applicator that does not allow moisture to sink into the seams.

Some species and formats are more susceptible to damage from excessive drying than others. For example, White Tigerwood and Hickory will tend to perform better than Maple; and Vertical Grain Bamboo will tend to perform better than Horizontal Grain Bamboo. Generally, engineered bamboo or Cumaru (Brazilian Teak) is not recommended in dry climates unless humidity conditions are carefully controlled. Maple is somewhat unstable as well.

The products that are most likely to survive without problems in dry out-of-warranty environments are: hand scraped Hickory, White Tigerwood, and properly acclimated solid flooring such as bamboo, woven bamboo and solid exotics.
Wood Surface Scratching

This is one of the most common complaints that flooring dealers receive from customers who have had a floor installed and then return a few weeks later unhappy that their floor is scratched. Educating the customer before the floor is installed can often prevent these complaints. The key solutions to the common pitfalls are proper maintenance and managing customer expectations. Always make sure that your customer reads the manufacturer’s care and maintenance instructions before they occupy the space where the floor is installed. And remember, there is no such thing as a scratchproof wood floor!
Refinishing an Eco Friendly Wooden Floor: Screening & Top Coating

Screening and top coating is a method for renewing the finish on a wood floor without actually removing the old finish and sanding down the wood. It will repair most signs of wear and create a uniform, sealed surface on the floor. It is relatively quick and inexpensive and can be repeated indefinitely. With screening and top coating, even the thinnest wood veneer wear layer can last forever because people walk on the finish, not on the wood. Factory applied finishes can be top coated just like jobsite applied finishes. In areas such as bathrooms, kitchens, and spaces where food service occurs, top coating a newly installed factory finished wood floor can help prevent against moisture damage. In heavy food service areas such as restaurants, two to three top coats are recommended.

There are both mechanical and chemical systems for screening, i.e. roughing up the surface of the old finish so that new top coats can adhere to it. The mechanical method usually involves putting a Scotchbrite pad on a standard drum flooring sander and operating the sander in a normal fashion. Chemical systems are offered by Bona Prep (Bona Prep Recoating Adhesion System) and Basic Coatings (Basic Coatings “TyKote” Sandless Recoating System). The manufacturer’s instructions should be followed.

Concern for the environment is growing as rapidly as a stalk of bamboo. And the popularity of bamboo flooring is growing just as fast.

Bamboo is proving to be a hardy and attractive alternative to hardwoods. It’s easy on the environment, as it can grow to maturity in five years, compared to 50-150 years for many hardwoods. It’s sturdy, with a hardness that rivals, and in many cases exceeds, the hardness of many hardwoods. It’s attractive — available in solid, woven and engineered versions, it offers a variety of colors and grains. And it’s cost-effective, often less expensive than hardwoods and easy to install.

Hardness in woods is measured by the Janka Scale. The hardness of bamboo flooring depends on the type and the way in which it is manufactured. Solid bamboo flooring is made out of milled splits of bamboo glue-pressed together. Woven bamboo flooring uses thousands of bamboo strands pressed together under high pressure. And engineered bamboo flooring is usually comprised of an outer layer bamboo layer over a pine and rubberwood backing.

Woven bamboo flooring is the hardest and rates 3000 on the Janka Scale, significantly harder than Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba), which is rated at 2350. Solid bamboo flooring rates at 1640, harder than white oak, rated at 1360. And engineered bamboo flooring rates from 1350-1600.

Janka Scale:

- Woven Bamboo 3000
- Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba) 2350
- Solid Bamboo (natural color) 1640
- White Oak 1360
- Engineered Bamboo 1350 to 1600
- Red Oak 1290
- Solid Bamboo (darker color) 1120
- Black Walnut 1010
- Teak 1000

The inherent hardness, combined with a tough finish (often acrylic), makes bamboo a durable choice for flooring. A number of manufacturers provide warranties for residential applications of as much as 27 years.

The surge in popularity of bamboo flooring has created a rush to market with a concomitant surge in manufacturing capacity. The quality of the finished product varies widely, depending on the manufacturing processes used. As with most products, many manufacturing variables determine the ultimate quality of bamboo flooring, including the following:

Stalks should be processed quickly after cutting. Otherwise they can develop a surface mold that is often visible in the finished product. Quality manufacturers process their cut stalks immediately, eliminating the possibility of mold.

Moisture content should be as low as possible. It can vary widely, from 7% to 14% and depends on the quality of the manufacturing process. Manufactures of high quality bamboo flooring achieve the lower end of range.

Denser is better. Wood filler and adhesives are used to fill and bind the bamboo material. Manufacturers that use higher compressions during the crushing process are able to use less wood filler to fill the voids between the larger strands of bamboo than those who use lower compressions.

High quality adhesives should be used. Low quality adhesives, especially those containing urea-formaldehyde adhesive, can emit harmful off-gases in the home.

Installation of bamboo flooring is straight-forward and similar to the installation of hard wood flooring. Both solid bamboo and woven bamboo flooring are available in tongue & groove configurations, and can be either glued or nailed to the sub-floor.

The growth in the use of bamboo for green flooring is not surprising. Bamboo is a solid choice: it’s attractive, durable, reasonably priced - and easy on the environment.

References:

- Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design for Homes (LEEDS)
http://www.greenhomeguide.org/green_home_programs/LEED_for_homes.html

- Janka Wood Hardness Scale
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_Wood_Hardness_Rating

- Environmental Bamboo Foundation
http://www.bamboocentral.org/

Is it Really Eco? Don't be Fooled!

Wood suppliers often make claims that their products come from "managed" or "sustainable" forests, but without independent certification, there is no way to really know. Increasingly, such claims are used as a marketing ploy to "greenwash" material that came from destructive forestry practices. That’s why it’s important to buy certified wood, BUT. . .

The fact that a wood product is "certified" does not mean that it comes from an ecologically-well managed forest. There are now various types of forest certification (see below), and most do not have meaningful environmental standards, enforcement mechanisms, or methods of tracking the wood through the supply chain to keep out illegally-logged material and prevent misrepresentation..

The only forest certification system that enjoys the support of environmental groups worldwide is that of the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), which is independent, non-profit, and has a mechanism for tracking wood from the forest to the consumer. The U.S. Green Building Council only recognizes FSC certification as evidence of the sustainability of a wood product. If you want verification that the wood you are purchasing came from a truly well-managed forest, demand FSC-certified material, and demand proper documentation.

PLEASE NOTE: the fact that a company has FSC certification does not mean that what is being sold is FSC-certified. Many companies that have FSC "Chain of Custody" (COC) certification, which gives them the right to buy and sell FSC-certified wood, don't sell much FSC-certified wood at all. This is particularly the case in the wood flooring industry.

Most FSC-certified wood products have on-product FSC labels. If you are purchasing what you believe is FSC-certified wood but there are no FSC logos on the product packaging, it most likely is not certified, no matter what the rest of the information provided by the manufacturer or supplier might indicate. Some companies will even use the FSC logo on product samples, but ship uncertified material to fill your order. To verify the FSC-certified status of a wood product that does not bare the FSC logo, demand not only the supplier's COC certificate, but also an invoice or receipt detailing the FSC-certified status of each product on an individual line-item basis. If the invoice's line-item doesn't say "FSC-certified," the material is not certified.

Examples of questionable certification systems include:
SFI (Sustainable Forestry Initiative - Sustainable Flooring)

• Funded and dominated by the timber industry
• Weak environmental protections
• Allows conversion of natural forests (including old-growth) into tree farms
• No credible Chain of Custody to keep out illegal wood

CSA (Canadian Standards Association)
• Allows large-scale clearing of old-growth
• Fails to protect First Nations

PEFC - Program for the Endorsement of Forest Certification
• Weak environmental standards
• No credible Chain of Custody
• Mutually recognizes virtually all forest certification systems, including SFI and CSA
• PEFC wood could come from almost any source

ISO (International Standards Organization)
• Standards address manufacturing practices, not forest management

IBAMA
• Program of the Brazilian government
• Low environmental standards, poorly enforced
• No Chain of Custody

None of the above forest certification systems enjoy the support of the environmental community. The FSC, on the other hand, is supported by major international conservation groups such as Greenpeace, Sierra Club, World Wildlife Fund, Natural Resources Defense Council, Rainforest Action Network, and many others.

Forest Certification Reports
These independent reports provide a basic overview of some of the issues surrounding forest certification and responsible wood purchasing.

MISSION STATEMENT

EcoTimber brings positive change to the way forest ecosystems are managed worldwide by offering wood products that only come from the highest standards of sustainable forest management. Also, we are committed to providing our customers with high-quality, beautiful, and healthy products that are free from toxic materials.

EcoTimber will always remain on the cutting edge of environmental awareness and action. Our professionalism will demonstrate that highly ethical business practices can be sustained without sacrificing financial success; proving that integrity and passion can go hand in hand with profitability.
OUR PRACTICES

Since 1992, EcoTimber has promoted forest conservation worldwide by selling sustainably-harvested and reclaimed wood products. We back our products with a commitment to excellent quality, friendly service, and competitive pricing.

Our suppliers' forestry practices guarantee a perpetual yield of high-quality timber while maintaining or restoring healthy, self-regenerating forest ecosystems. EcoTimber specializes in wood products from forests that are certified well-managed according to the rules of the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), as well as wood alternatives such as Bamboo flooring. EcoTimber thoroughly researches our sources, maintaining the highest standards in choosing genuinely eco-friendly products.

When you buy from EcoTimber, you're not just buying the finest wood products available. You're casting a dollar vote for sustainable forestry, and helping conserve forests through responsible wood use.

OUR PRODUCTS

EcoTimber offers a wide range of gorgeous domestic and exotic hardwood and bamboo flooring, including prefinished engineered and floating floors. We provide many types of bamboo flooring and hardwood flooring products. All EcoTimber flooring is milled in standard formats that contractors feel comfortable with, and we offer warranties that match the best in the business. Purchasing eco-friendly wood products does not mean sacrificing beauty, durability, or ease of installation.

OUR SERVICES

EcoTimber provides full technical support, including but not limited to data sheets for our bamboo & hardwood flooring products, specification guidelines, samples, and installation instructions. We can ship almost anywhere via common carrier.

OUR CUSTOMERS

Our customers include well-known companies like Nike, Disney, Pottery Barn, Patagonia, and Whole Foods Market, as well as architects, designers, builders, developers, corporations, and countless home owners. Our list of satisfied customers grows every day.