plumbing

Electrical and Plumbing Installment in Straw Bale

Ceilings, frame walls, and stem walls are always an option for plumbing and electrical locations. When you do have to run these systems through a bale wall, how do you do it?

Plumbing leaks are more critical within straw bale walls than within stick frame walls for obvious reasons: straw rots pretty quickly if it gets wet and stays wet - a lot quicker than 2×4s would rot. As a precaution, it is best to keep most of the plumbing within interior walls and run the water into the house through a stem wall. The highest standards of fitting can help minimize the risk of leaks. Careful planning eliminates unsightly messes at this point. Before beginning construction, you should plan for water to enter where pipes will not be seen in plain view, such as under a sink or in a mechanical closet. Use of the stem wall is appropriate for running water into your structure.

The electrical system in a bale home is the same as in a stick frame home from the circuit breaker to the switches and fixtures. However, electrical wiring has different installation methods in a straw bale wall. UF (Underground Feeder) cable is recommended for its durability and moisture resistance. A metal “needle” is used to thread the wire from the exterior to the interior where necessary. A chainsaw is used to cut a 1.5 inch channel in the straw bale walls. The wire is stuffed into the channel or in the seam between bales and run to switch and fixture locations. Plug and switch boxes are screwed to a wooden stake which is driven into the bale to keep the box in place.

 

This post was submitted by ThinkDwell. Visit Our Blog.


Green Building Q&A Part 6: Plumbing and Moisture

Part 6 of our 15-part Q&A series on all aspects of green building from the publishers of HealthyHouseInstitute.com. Click here for the introductory post and furthur details.

Question: Should I use metal or plastic water pipes in my new house?

Answer: Plastic water mains are now widely used by utilities, and they’re also common in many new houses. They tend to be easier and less expensive to install than metal pipes. Many plastic pipes use both a toxic solvent-based cleaner and cement to fuse the pipe and fittings together. While these are very noxious, they’re so volatile that they outgas quickly—usually within a few hours—if there’s plenty of extra ventilation.

When water moves through new plastic plumbing lines, many sensitive people report a plastic-like taste. This occurs if contaminants are being released into the water, either from the pipe itself or from the cleaner or glue.

While you can’t do much about what your water utility uses for underground water mains, we prefer to use copper for supply lines inside houses. In the past, lead-based solder was common. But today, Federal regulations forbid the use of lead in plumbing solders. Galvanized-steel piping is also relatively inert, but it’s usually more expensive than copper.

Drain pipes are bigger in diameter, making copper drains expensive. Therefore, we often recommend using plastic for these. The plastic really doesn’t outgas very much into the air. But to minimize outgassing, we buy the pipe and fittings early in the construction process and let them air out before they're installed. Then, when the cleaner and glue are used, we stay away for a while and provide extra ventilation until everything has aired out.


Plumbing

Plumbing

Where does all the water go?

  • One extra long shower using 5 gallons per minute: 75 gallons
  • Hand-washing dishes throughout the day, water running: 25 gallons
  • Brushing teeth, water running at 2 gallons per minute (don’t forget to floss): 3 gallons
  • Washing hands: 2.5 gallons
  • Flushing toilet: 1.5 gallons to 7 gallons (!) per flush
  • Load of laundry in a top loading washer: 40-50 gallons
  • Dog Water Bowl: 2 quarts per day

Image sxc.hu


Is rainwater safe to drink or bathe in? What about pollutants?

“Ah, but what about the air the rain falls through?” you ask. “What if it’s polluted?” Well, first off, aren’t you breathing that air? Seems like that should be your first concern. But, yes, rainwater can be contaminated by air pollution that plagues industrial areas, heavily populated cites, agricultural areas where crop dusting is common, and anywhere downwind from any of the sites mentioned above. And even in areas where falling rain is free of these hazards, your rainwater collection surface (i.e.: your roof) may also harbor contaminants like bacteria, molds, algae, bird poop, and squirrel pee. But what exactly do you think is in the raw source of many municipal water supplies? Austin, Texas, for example, taps Town Lake, a veritable stew of urban rubbish, for its water supply.

As for your own personal water supply, when collected rainwater is used solely for watering the yard, no treatment is required. To render rainwater potable, a series of filters and an ultraviolet light will do the trick. And for the truly persnickety or for kidney dialysis, nothing beats reverse osmosis, the same process a lot of those fancy bottled water companies use to turn tap water into “spring” water.

Answer excerpted from Richard Heinicken’s Rainwater Collection For the Mechanically Challenged , available from rainwater.org.


What kind of roofing materials are compatible with a rainwater catchment system?

Think smooth. We joke about the merits of glass roofs (stone-throwers aside), but when we stop laughing and get serious, we’d have to say the best roofs for rainwater collection are metal. If your existing roof isn’t metal, don’t despair. Unless it’s flat and covered with tar and gravel (whoever invented this roof should be tarred and gravel-ed) or one of the old asbestos nightmares, nearly any roof can serve as a collection surface. It’s not the particles, like those that might be washed off composition shingles, that present the biggest obstacle; those can easily be filtered out. Rather, it’s the chemicals, like those used to treat wood shingles, that cause problems in water collected for potable use. Fortunately, activated carbon filters in combination with ultraviolet light can remove nearly everything except radio-active particles and, most inconveniently, lead.

Answer excerpted from Richard Heinichen's Rainwater Collection for the Mechanically Challenged, available on rainwater.org.